Explosive-Bomb

DISCLAIMER : The making and possesion of the following devices and mixtures
is probably illegal in most communities. The incendiaries are
capable of burning in excess of 5400 degrees F. and are next
to impossible to extinguish. If you make them you accept all
responsibility for their possesion and use. You also accept
all responsibility for your own stupidity and carelessness.
This information is intended solely to educate.

All Formulas are by Weight

Thermites are a group of pyrotechnics mixtures in which a reactive metal
reduces oxygen from a metallic oxide. This produces a lot of heat, slag and
pure metal. The most common themite is ferroaluminum thermite, made from
aluminum (reactive metal) and iron oxide (metal oxide). When it burns it
produces aluminum oxide (slag) and pure iron.
Thermite is usually used to cut or weld metal. As an experiment, a 3lb. brick
of thermite was placed on an aluminum engine block. After the thermite was
done burning, only a small portion of block was melted. However, the block
was very warped out of shape plus there were cracks all through the block.
Ferro-thermite produces about 930 calories per gram
The usual proportions of ferro-thermite are 25% aluminum and 75% iron oxide
The iron oxide usually used is not rust (Fe2O3) but iron scale (Fe3O4).Rust
will work but you may want to adjust the mixture to about 77% rust.
The aluminum is usually coarse powder to help slow down the burning rate.
The chemicals are mixed together thoroughly and compressed into a suitable
container. A first fire mix is poured on top and ignited.

NOTE: Thermites are generally very safe to mix and store. They are not shock
or friction sensitive and ignite at about 2000 degrees F.

A first fire mix is a mixture that ignites easier than thermite and burns
hot enough to light the thermite reliably. A very good one is :
Potassium Nitrate 5 parts
Fine ground Aluminum 3 parts
Sulfur 2 parts

Mix the above thoroughly and combine 2 parts of it with 1 part of finely
powdered ferro-thermite. The resulting mixture can be light by safety fuse
and burns intensely.


One problem with thermites is the difference in weight between the aluminum
and the oxide. This causes them to separate out rendering the thermite
useless. One way to fix this is to use a binder to hold the chemicals to
each other. Sulfur is good for this. Called Diasite, this formula uses
sulfur to bind all the chemicals together. It's drawback is the thermite
must be heated to melt the sulfur.
Iron Oxide 70 %
Aluminum 23 %
Sulfur 7 %

Mix the oxide and aluminum together and put them in an oven at 325 degrees
F. and let the mix heat for a while. When the mixture is hot sprinkle the
sulfur over it and mix well. Put this back in the oven for a few minutes
to melt all the sulfur. Pull it back out and mix it again. While it is
still hot, load into containers for use. When it cools, drill out the
diasite to hold about 10 - 15 grams of first fire mix.
When diasite burns it forms sulfide compounds that release hydrogen sulfide
when in contact with water. This rotten egg odor can hamper fire fighting
efforts.
Thermite can be made not to separate by compressing it under a couple of
tons pressure. The resulting pellet is strong and burns slower than thermite
powder.

CAST THERMITE: This formula can be cast into molds or containers and hardens
into a solid mass. It does not produce as much iron as regular ferro-thermite
, but it makes a slag which stays liquid a lot longer. Make a mixtures as
follows.
Plaster of Paris 2 parts
Fine and Coarse Mixed Aluminum 2 parts
Iron Oxide 3 parts
Mix together well and and enough water to wet down plaster. Pour it into a
mold and let it sit for 1/2 hour. Pour off any extra water that seperates
out on top. Let this dry in the sun for at least a week. Or dry in the sun
for one day and put in a 250 degree F. oven for a couple of hours.
Drill it out for a first fire mix when dry.

THERMITE BOMB: Thermite can be made to explode by taking the cast thermite
formula and substituting fine powdered aluminum for the coarse/fine mix.
Take 15 grams of first fire mix and put in the center of a piece of aluminum
foil. Insert a waterproof fuse into the mix and gather up the foil around
the fuse. Waterproof the foil/fuse with a thin coat of wax. Obtain a two-
piece spherical mold with a diameter of about 4-5 inches. Wax or oil the
inside of the mold to help release the thermite. Now, fill one half of the
mold with the cast thermite. Put the first fire/fuse package into the center
of the filled mold. Fill the other half of the mold with the thermite and
assemble mold. The mold will have to have a hole in it for the fuse to stick
out. In about an hour, carefully separate the mold. You should have a ball
of thermite with the first fire mix in the center of it, and the fuse
sticking out of the ball. Dry the ball in the sun for about a week.
DO NOT DRY IT IN AN OVEN !
The fuse ignites the first fire mix which in turn ignites the thermite.
Since the thermite is ignited from the center out, the heat builds up in the
thermite and it burns faster than normal. The result is a small explosion.
The thermite ball burns in a split second and throws molten iron and slag
around. Use this carefully !

THERMITE WELL: To cut metal with thermite, take a refractory crucible and
drill a 1/4 in. hole in the bottom. Epoxy a thin (20 ga.) sheet of mild steel
over the hole. Allow the epoxy to dry. Fill the crucible with ferro-thermite
and insert a first fire igniter in the thermite. Fashion a standoff to the
crucible. This should hold the crucible about 1 1/2 in. up. Place the well
over your target and ignite the first fire. The well works this way.
The thermite burns, making slag and iron. Since the iron is heavier it goes
to the bottom of the well. The molten iron burns through the metal sheet.
This produces a small delay which gives the iron and slag more time to
separate fully. The molten iron drips out through the hole in the bottom of
the crucible. The standoff allows the thermite to continue flowing out of the
crucible. The force of the dripping iron bores a hole in the target.
A 2 lb. thermite well can penetrate up to 3/4 in. of steel. Experiment with
different configurations to get maximum penetration. For a crucible, try a
flower pot coated with a magnesium oxide layer. Sometimes the pot cracks
however. Take the cast thermite formula and add 50% ferro-thermite to it.
This produces a fair amount of iron plus a very liquid slag.

THERMITE FUEL-AIR EXPLOSION: This is a very dangerous device. Ask yourself
if you really truly want to make it before you do any work on it.
It is next to impossible to give any dimensions of containers or weights
of charges because of the availability of parts changes from one person to
the next. However here is a general description of this device affectionately
known as a HELLHOUND.
Make a thermite charge in a 1/8 in. wall pipe. This charge must be
electrically ignited. At the opposite end of the pipe away from the ignitor
side put a small explosive charge of flash powder weighing about 1 oz.
Drill a small hole in a pipe end cap and run the wires from the ignitor
through the hole. Seal the wires and hole up with fuel proof epoxy or cement.
Try ferrule cement available at sporting goods stores. Dope the threads of
the end caps with a good pipe dope and screw them onto the pipe.
This gives you a thermite charge in an iron pipe arranged so that when the
thermite is electrically ignited, it will burn from one end to the other
finally setting of the flash powder charge.
Place this device in a larger pipe or very stout metal container which is
sealed at one end. Use a couple of metal "spiders" to keep the device away
from the walls or ends of the larger container. Run the wires out through
the wall of the container and seal the wires with the fuel proof epoxy.
Fill the container with a volatile liquid fuel. Acetone or gasoline works
great. Now seal up the container with an appropriate end cap and it is done.

The device works like this: Attach a timer-power supply to the wires. When
the thermite is ignited it superheats the liquid fuel. Since the container
is strong enough to hold the pressure the fuel does not boil. When the
thermite burns down to the explosive, it explodes rupturing the container
and releasing the superheated fuel. The fuel expands, cooling off and
making a fine mist and vapor that mixes with the surrounding air. The hot
thermite slag is also thrown into the air which ignites the fuel-air mix.
The result is obvious. Try about 1 1/2 lbs of thermite to a gallon of fuel.
For the pressure vessel, try an old pressure cooker. Because the fuel may
dissolve the epoxy don't keep this device around for very long.
But ask yourself, do you really want to make this?


EXOTIC THERMITES: Thermites can also be made from teflon-magnesium or metal
flourides-magnesium or aluminum. If there is an excess of flouride compound
in the mixture, flourine gas can be released. Flourine is extremely
corrosive and reactive. The gas can cause organic material to burst into
flames by mere contact. For teflon-magnesium use 67% teflon and 33% magnesium
A strong first fire igniter should be used to ignite this mixture. Both the
teflon and the magnesium should be in powdered form. Do not inhale any
smoke from the burning mixture.
If you use metal-florides instead of teflon, use flourides of low energy
metals. Lead flouride is a good example. Try using 90% lead flouride and
10% aluminum.
Warning: Flouride compounds can be very poisonous. They are approximately
equal to cyanide compounds.
Another exotic mix is tricalcium orthophosphate and aluminum. When this
burns,it forms calcium phosphide which when contacts water releases hydrogen
phosphide which can ignite spontaneously in air.
Tricalcium orthophosphate has the formula Ca3(PO4)2 and is known as white-
lockite. Use about 75% orthophosphate and 25% aluminum. This ratio may have
to be altered for better burning as I have not experimented with it much and
don't know if more aluminum may reduce the calcium better. It does work but
it is a hard to ignite mixture. A first fire mix containing a few percent
of magnesium works well.

Fighting thermite fires: Two ways to fight thermite fires are either
smothering the thermite with sand. This doesn't put out the thermite but it
does help contain it and block some of the heat.
The other way is to flood the thermite with a great amount of water. This
helps to break the thermite apart and stop the reaction. If you use a small
amount of water, an explosion may result as the thermite may reduce the water
and release hydrogen gas.
Thermite can start fires from the heat radiating from the reaction. Nearby
flammable substances can catch fire even though no sparks or flame touch them.

Time Delays & Special Effects
-----------------------------
In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer
rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape
(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold
in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell
packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have
to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there
are some changes):

1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing.
2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel,
continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an
extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel.
3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this,
(after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the
propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into
the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad
of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy.
4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and
pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug.

Now you're all ready to go...


Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke
------------------------------
To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy.
All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder
and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket).
Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on
top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time
delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This
is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its
flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very
simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do:

Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on
to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to
do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as
the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may
use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow
lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it).


Making a Nose Cone for better Performance
-----------------------------------------
To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make
something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto
the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume
that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.)


Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute
---------------------------------------
To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL
amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a
3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of
your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of
the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued
it onto the rocket).


Second Stage Rocket
-------------------
If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged
razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the
front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the
rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it
for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are
capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second
stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the
front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor
reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its
front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine.


Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket
----------------------------------
When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to
balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that
the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent.
Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first
stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks
1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries,
you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first
until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the
first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving
the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick
rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier
explaination.)


Substitutions & Misc.
---------------------
You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water
putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at
a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better
rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender,
if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it...

List of Materials needed:

A. 1-2.5 gallon water pressure fire extinguisher.
B. 2 gallons of Isopropyl Alochol
C. 1 Air compressor or access to an air compressor (local gas station)
D. 1 Propane torch or lighter. (hand held type)
E. 2 Hose clamps

Ok, have you got it figured out yet? no? ok, read up!

First off is get all your materials together. Everything is pretty easy to
get ahold of. Try your local drug and hardware stores for the alcohol and
hose clamps. And try your local fire extinguisher sales and service store
to find a used fire extinguisher. Make sure it is the right kind!

Now, lets get to work.
Let all the pressure out of the fire extinguisher before you start.
Open up the top of the tank and turn it upside down to empty the
remaining water out of it. Let it dry out.
Now, take the hose of fire extinguisher and use the hose clamps to
mount the propane torch to the end of it. Let the propane torch hang
out about 2 inches past the end of the nozzle. You don't want this right
on the end of the hose or it may cause the flame to travel up the hose.
This may cause you a serious problem, BOOM!. You now have the igniter
attached to your flame thrower.

Now that you have the torch securely attached to the hose, test it out and
see if it works ok. The flame should cross the path of the nozzle about
2 inches from the end.

Ok. dude, the hard part is over. Now take your 2 gallons of alcohol and
fill the tank. Don't fill the tank more than half full or you will not
get enough compressed air into the tank. Re-install the the hose to the
tanks and make sure it fits tight. Leaks can be dangerous!

You're almost there, dude. Take the tank and fill it with compressed air
from your air compressor or the air compressor at you local gas station.
About 40-50 pounds of air should do, check the maximum pressure rating for
your extinguisher before you start filling it.

Now, find a fairly isolated area to use this thing, because it will
DEFINITELY attract attention. Oh, and adult supervision is advised.
Hold the igniter away from you or anybody else that wishes to see their
next birthday and light the propane torch. All you have to do now is aim
the nozzle where you want it to go and squeeze the trigger on the fire
extinguisher. A 40-50 foot long, 6-8 foot wide flame will shoot from your
newest toy!

This baby works great! I know, I have seen it in use. It puts out one hell
of a flame ball and generates some intense heat. It will definitely burn
trees, cars, houses, schools, nosey neighbours, barking dogs, ect.....

I would suggest you shut the igniter flame off first, then let off on the
trigger of the fire extinguisher. This will keep the flame from trying to
travel up the end of the hose and into the tank. Remember: SAFETY FIRST!

NOTE: I'm not too sure about the legality of this toy, so I wouldn't
recommend you show it to your local police force.
Have fun!

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1. Thermite - This is a very usefull powdered substance. This powder can give
up to 2200C (half the heat of an ATOM bomb). It can be used to
melt through pretty much anything. Things such as fortress fones
(pay phones) or common locks are no match for thermite, which is
the reason it is used by professional thieves so extensively!!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. 10 grams of powdered aluminum
2. 10 grams of iron oxide (rust)
3. Magnesium Strip

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Basically just mix the two substances together, until as homogenous
as possible.
2. Can be made in larger/smaller amounts as long as ratio of 50/50 is
kept.

C. Igniting.....
--------
1. Lit with a magnesium strip.

** Thermite is perfect for getting into things that have locks....

>----------------------------------------------------------------------------<

2. Molotov Bomb - Also reffered to as a cocktail bomb, is a very simple yet
effective explosive. Is used ALOT in guerilla warfare or
common rebellions. Will produce a good amount of fire!!!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Gasoline
2. Bottle

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Fill one bottle 3/4 full of gasoline.
2. Insert a gasoline soaked rag into the bottle (jam the top of the
bottle with it). Be sure to leave about 15 inches of excess rag to
light.
3. Light and toss.

C. Igniting.....
--------
1. Any lighter or match will light gasoline.

** This was used by Russians and later adapted by the French in the second
world war against German tanks. they would open the hatch, light the rag and
toss it in!! Gasoline can be replaced with just about any flammable!!!

<---------------------------------------------------------------------------->

3. Tennis Ball Grenades - A small impact grenade.

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Tennis Balls
2. Sandpaper
3. LOTS of match heads
4. Blackpowder or Gunpowder reccomended
5. Duct Tape

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Cut a small square hole in a tennis ball (about 5cm sides)
2. Coat the side of the inside of the ball with sand paper.
3. Fill the ball with match heads (preferrably wooden ones).
4. Slide in some more sand paper (slowly)
5. Pour in gun or black powder.
6. Will ignite on impact!!!

C. Ignition......
--------
1. Will ignite on impact.

** Are great when being chased, whipping directly at your pursuiter is a GREAT
way to "deviate" him from his tracks!!!

:----------------------------------------------------------------------------:

4. Smoke Bomb #1 - Generate a GREAT amount of smoke!!!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. 6 grams of Zinc Powder
2. 1 gram of Sulphur Powder

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Just mix the two parts together.
2. Can be made in different quantities as long as the 6 to 1 ratio is
kept.

C. Ignition.....
--------
1. Insert a RED hot wire, and it should start producing smoke!!!

** Perfect for a "fire" at school or to make your own smoke bombs.

*----------------------------------------------------------------------------*

5. Smoke Bomb #5 - Generate EVEN MORE smoke!!!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Potassium Nitrate
2. Icing Sugar

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Grind up both until they are minute specks.
2. Mix together with one part Potassium Nitrate and four parts Icing
Sugar.

C. Ignition.....
--------
1. Use any normal fuse.

** Perfect for schools.....

O----------------------------------------------------------------------------O

6. Makeshift Delay Wick - Perfect for anything with a wick!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Wick
2. Any explosive
3. A cigarette

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Cut the wick in half.
2. Cut the filter off of the cigarette.
3. Insert one of the wicks into the front of the cigarette.
4. Insert the other into the cigarette (this wick should be attached to
the explosive)
5. Should look like.....

------------)#########(--------|***********|
*1 *2 *3 *4

*1 - The first wick which you will light....
*2 - The cigarette which is attached to both wicks....
*3 - The second wick (relays flame from cigarette to explosive)....
*4 - The explosive....

C. Ignition.....
--------
1. Light the first wick and the flame will eventually get to explosive.

** If you don't know how this delay wick works then (to put it bluntly) you're
stupid but for you morons here's how it works. When you light the first wick,
it will burn up to the cigarette.....which will be lit. The flame on the
cigarette will reach the end of the cigarette and light the second wick (which
should be about a centimeter into the cigarette) and which in turn will light
the explosive. So as you can see, this is a small, cheap and long delay wick.
The delay can be adjusted by the size of the cigarette. Sometimes if there is
no wind the cigarette will not light. But I have yet to see this happen.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

7. Flamethrower Gas - HIGHLY flammable

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Calcium Carbide
2. Water

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Mix the two together!!!
2. Will form acetylene (VERY flammable, used for blowtorches)

C. Ignition.....
--------
1. Just mix!!!

** This can be very valuable, for instance, try having a lit match over the
concoction (step back)!!!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

8. Napalm - Thickened...powered up....gasoline!!!

A. Ingredients.....
-----------
1. Unleaded Gasoline
2. Polystyrine (also known as styrofoam)

B. Procedure.....
---------
1. Mix the two together until the gas is saturated (won't take anymore)
2. Leave it for 5 minutes and MAKE SURE it won't take anymore, for
sometimes after sitting there for a bit, it takes more.

C. Ignition.....
--------
1. Pour and light!!!

** This is a very usefull chemical, for it burns like a bitch!!! But the smoke
and gas that it releases are poisonous, so be carefull!!!

WARNING- THIS SHIT IS VERY DANGEROUS, BURNING NAPALM WILL DISFIGURE ANY FLESH
IT CONTACTS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE COMMON SENSE, DON'T MAKE OR USE THIS.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

THE Mad Phone-man's Recipe for Napalm
---------------------------------------

Needed materials:

Gasoline-Regular
Styrofoam- Pellets,packing material, drinking cups,peanuts, as long
it dissolves under a drop of gasoline.
Glass bottles- Realemmon Juice type, Absolute Vodka, or other thin
glass wall bottles.
Rags- Cotton, cut into 2" by 12" strips
Funnel- To fit bottles.
Bucket- Type that will not disolve in gasoline.

Procedure:
Pour enough gasoline into the bucket to fill all bottles. Start adding
the styrofoam to the gasoline, stirring until it dissolves into a
liquid approximately the consistancy of honey or syrup. Caution, do not
over dissolve styro as it has a tendency to expand and become
too thick. (A little experimentation here works out well)

Pour the mixture into the dry bottles, (water in them will be dangerous
to user) leave enough room at the top to plug the hole tightly with
a strip of rag folded in half. Do not saturate rag at this time with
gas or napalm. The rag should extend into the void at the top of the
bottle about 2".

Deployment:
Transport to site of usage carefully, and upright. DONT SMOKE! Turn
bottle upside down briefly to saturate wick, or wick can be doused with
lighter fluid or charcoal lighter. (I don't use pure gasoline here
cause of premature ignition of device). Light wick, and deploy
immediately, smashing against the object to be napalmed. Aim high, the
mixture runs down.

Cautions:
Too much air space in top of bottle risks explosion of fumes trapped
there. Any water in mixture causes either the flame to sputter and
and extinguish, or splatter user with flaming fuel.

About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistancy,
like jam and is best for use on vehilces or buildings.
Napalms is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is
either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do.
The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The
usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a
two-quart capicity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil
and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where
there is no flame.
Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and
allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess
is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill
a bathtub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat
longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler.

THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH PRACTICALLY
ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS SPECIALLY OF USE IN TRYING TO CRACK
OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE IT. IT IS VERY SIMPLE.
THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S TERMS,
EMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS GOOD METHOD OF MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES
OF RUST. OU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METAL ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL
NEED A SURCE OF DC POWER AS WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT.
ATTATCH THE ROD TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE
^^^^^^^^
WIRE IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE SALT
IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A TEASPOON). LET THE
SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, HERE WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE
JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF THE WATER OR JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON.
NOW YOU WILL NEED TO DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT I AN IRON POT UNTILL IT ALL TURNS
A NICE LIGHT RED.
THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN EITHER
FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY ALUMINUM FILINGS AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE BAR USE NO LESS THN 94% PURE
ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER
THE RUST AND ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER
3 GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!
NOW, TO LIGHT IT! STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE OF THE
THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE
STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.)
THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE
MAGNESIUM WITH A BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY. THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO
LIGHT THE THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT STUFF CAN
VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.

THERMITE IS A POWERFUL SUBSTANCE WHICH CAN BURN THROUGH
PRACTICALLY ANYTHING, SAVE TUNGSTEN. IT IS ESPECIALLY OF USE IN
TRYING TO CRACK OPEN A FORTRESS FONE. NOW HERE'S HOW TO MAKE IT.
IT IS VERY SIMPLE.

THE FIRST STEP IN MAKING THERMITE IS TO MAKE HEMATITE. IN LAYMAN'S
TERMS, HEMATITE IS IRON OXIDE (RUST). HERE IS A GOOD METHOD OF
MAKING LARGE QUANTITIES OF RUST. YOU WILL ELECTROLYZE A METER
ROD, SUCH AS A COMMON NAIL. YOU WILL NEED A SOURCE OF DC POWER AS
WELL. AN ELECTRIC TRAIN TRANSFORMER IS PERFECT. ATTATCH THE ROD
TO THE POSITIVE WIRE. THEN PLACE THE ROD AND THE NEGATIVE WIRE
IN OPPOSITE SIDES OF A GLASS JAR FILLED WITH WATER. PUT A LITTLE
SALT IN THE WATER, JUST ENOUGH TO MAKE IT CONDUCT WELL (A
TEASPOON). LET THE SETUP SIT OVERNIGHT. IN THE MORNING, THERE
WILL BE A DARK RED CRUD IN THE JAR. FILTER ALL THE CRUD OUT OF
THE WATER OF JUST FISH IT OUT WITH A SPOON. NOW YOU WILL NEED TO
DRY IT OUT. HEAT IT IN AN IRON POT UNTIL IT ALL TURNS A NICE
LIGHT RED.

THE OTHER INGREDIANT YOU WILL NEED IS ALUMINUM FILINGS. YOU CAN
EITHER FILE DOWN A BAR OF ALUMINUM, OR (AS I SUGGEST) BUY
ALUMINUM FILINGS AT YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE SHOP. (IF YOU BUY THE
BAR, USE NO LESS THAN 94% PURE ALUMINUM. IT IS CALLED
DURALUMIN.) THAT'S ALMOST IT. NOW, MIX TOGETHER THE RUST AND
ALUMINUM FILINGS. THE RATIO SHOULD BE 8 GRAMS OF RUST PER 3
GRAMS OF ALUMINUM FILINGS. THAT'S THERMITE!

NOT, TO LIGHT IT. STICK A LENGTH OF MAGNESIUM RIBBON IN A PILE
OF THE THERMITE. (EITHER STEAL IT FROM CHEM LAB OR BUY IT AT
YOUR LOCAL HARDWARE STORE. IF NOT, ORDER FROM A CHEMICAL SUPPLY
HOUSE. IT'S PRETTY CHEAP.) THE RIBBON SHOULD STICK INTO THE
THERMITE LIKE A FUSE. NOW YOU LIGHT THE MAGNESIUM WITH A
BLOWTORCH. (DON'T WORRY, THE TORCH ISN'T HOT ENOUGH TO LIGHT THE
THERMITE.) WHEN THE BURNING MAGNESIUM REACHES THE THERMITE, IT
WILL LIGHT. WHEN THE THERMITE BURNS, GET THE HELL BACK! THAT
STUFF CAN VAPORIZE CARBON STEEL. IT DOES WONDERS ON HUMAN FLESH.

Don't be stupid, be a smarty come and join the anarchy party! For making this simple device you need: A powerful water pistol that won't leak. Acentone. (Best since it is not so extremely flammable like gasoline) Matches. Well, just fill the pistol with acentone and hold a burning match infront of the nozzle as you spray the flammable acentone. Depending on how powerful your spray nozzle is, you can get a string of flame which can reach up to 3-4 m!

------------
ENHANCEMENTS
------------

Time Delays & Special Effects
-----------------------------
In order to provide room for time delays (et cetera), you will need a longer
rocket casing. So go out to the store again and buy wider brown packaging tape
(3 in. instead of 2 in.). But the thing is that this type of tape is not sold
in most stores, so go look in a phone book for large paper suppliers that sell
packaging supplies. To make a rocket casing with a time delay, you just have
to follow the instructions in Part I (How to Make Sugar Rockets) except (there
are some changes):

1> Use the 3 in. packaging tape to make a 3 in. casing.
2> When loading the propellant, instead of stopping at the top of the mandrel,
continue working, using the flat, undrilled end of the tamp, and pack an
extra 1/2 inch of propellant in on top of the mandrel.
3> You will need to form a tiny hole through the epoxy glue plug, to do this,
(after packing the propellant) stick a large sewing needle into the
propellant right at the edge of the rocket casing, you then press it into
the delay powder to a depth of 1/8 of an inch, now firmly pack in your wad
of tissue paper or paper towel and then pour in the front plug of epoxy.
4> After the glue dries and hardens, use a pair of small pliers to twist and
pull the needle out of the epoxy, leaving a tiny pin-hole through the plug.

Now you're all ready to go...


Making a 'Pop' sound and smoke
------------------------------
To make a 'pop' and some smoke at the end of the rocket's flight is easy.
All you have to do is fill up the pin hole with black powder or Pyrodex powder
and add another 1/19 of a gram (1/2 as much as you used to prime the rocket).
Press in a another wad of tissue paper (or towel) and pour another epoxy cap on
top of that. When the falme inside the rocket reaches the front of the time
delay powder, it will flash through the pin hole and ignite the powder. This
is how to make a fire cracker like 'pop' and a puff of smoke at the end of its
flight. Making the flames a certain color is also desirable. Well, it is very
simple. If you want a green flame when it is lauched, this is what you do:

Go out and buy some Copper Sulfate (powder). Then you glue the powder on
to the rocket casing(s) at the ends all the way around. Use Elmer's glue to
do this. And that's it! When the rocket is ignited, it will be launched as
the Copper Sulfate burns (Elmer's glue melts), causing green flames. You may
use other chemicals to produce different colors. But be sure to use the slow
lift-off option that was explained in the Part I (so that you can observe it).


Making a Nose Cone for better Performance
-----------------------------------------
To make your rocket(s) fly better, you will need to make a nose cone. Make
something like a witch's hat out of paper and masking tape and glue it onto
the nose of each rocket. This should not require any assistance (I assume
that you must know how to make a nose cone. It shaped like a funnel.)


Using the Time Delay to Pop a Parachute
---------------------------------------
To pop a parachute, fill the pin hole with black powder and add a very SMALL
amount of powder on top of this. Then cut a disk of stiff paper from a
3 x 5 inch file card about 3/8 of an inch in diameter, and using on end of
your powder tamp, press the paper disk into the nose of the rocket on top of
the loose powder (be sure that you have not made a nose cone and have glued
it onto the rocket).


Second Stage Rocket
-------------------
If you want to have your rocket ignite a second stage, then use a single edged
razor blade to cut the excess length of the cassing off right at front of the
front plug. Then fill the pin-hole with loose powder and cap the FRONT of the
rocket with the powder ppaste just as you did to the back end when priming it
for firing. Make sure the front of the rocket is marked, once te ends are
capped, you won't be able to tell which end is which. When igniting a second
stage, place the priming cap of the second stage engine in contact with the
front end cap or first stage motor. When the flame in the first stage motor
reaches the front of the time delay powder, it will ignite the cap at its
front, which in turn will light the priming cap of the second stage engine.


Making a Second Stage Stick Rocket
----------------------------------
When you make a second stage stick rocket, you will need a longer stick to
balance the extra weight and you will have to connect the two stages so that
the second stage can slide easily away from the first after the first is spent.
Wrap a single layer of paper tape around the fron of the booster engine (first
stage motor), so that the tape is glued to the front of the booster but sticks
1/2 an inch out in from of the finished, capped engine. After the glue dries,
you can slide the tail of the second stage into this paper sleeve off the first
until the priming cap of the second stage mmotor touches the front cap of the
first. Glue or tape the longer guide stick to the second stage engine, leaving
the first stage engine and its paper sleeve free. (Note: This two stage stick
rocket is 2 rocket casings connected to a longer stick. This is an easier
explaination.)


Substitutions & Misc.
---------------------
You can mix white baking flour with epoxy glue if you cannot get the water
putty. Instead of getting flowers of sulfur, you can get dusting sulfur at
a nursery or fertilizer supplier. Dusting sulfur will result in a better
rocket. Never put the 3 chemicals (sulfur, saltpetre, and sugar) in a blender,
if you do, you'll get a real big kick out of it...

Well, good luck and look out for more files in the future...

- Pour some gas into an old bowl, or some kind of container.

- Get some styrofoam and put it in the gas, until the gas won't
eat anymore. You should have a sticky syrup.

- Put it on the end of something (don't touch it!!). The unused
stuff lasts a long time!

Gasoline Jello
=============
I.Ingredients:

Gasoline (four parts)
Candlewax (one part)

II.Procedure:

1) Melt the wax, and place in a
jar which has been set in a
hot water bath.

2) Slowly add the gasoline to
this mixture.

3) When the wax has completely
dissolved into the gasoline,
allow the solution to slowly
cool to room temperature.

III.Tips:

1) If the gell does not appear
then a lye solution may be
added to the original solute
by mixing equal amounts of
water and Sodium Hydroxide
to 50% by volume of the orig
solution.

IV.Caution:

Mix the lye and water very
slowly. And exercise extra
care when handleing any
explosives!

Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel
soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original
Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part
gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it
splatters on.
Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs
have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline.

The white of any bird egg can be used to gel gasoline for use as a
flame fuel which will adhere to target surfaces.

Materials Required
------------------

Parts by
Volume Ingredient How used Common Source
-------- ---------- -------- -------------

85 Gasoline Motor Fuel Gas Stations
Stove Fuel Motor Vehicle
Solvent

14 Egg Whites Food Food Store
Industrial Farms
Processes

Any one of the following:

1 Table Salt Food Sea Water
Industrial Natural Brine
Processes Food Store

3 Ground Coffee Food Coffee Plant
Food Store

3 Dried Tea Leaves Food Tea Plant
Food Store

3 Cocoa Food Cacao Tree
Food Store

2 Sugar Sweetening Sugar Cane
foods Food Store

1 Saltpeter Pyrotechnics Natural
(Potassium Explosives Deposits
Nitrate) Matches Drug Store
Medicine

1 Epsom Salts Medicine Natural
Mineral Water Kisserite
Industrial Drug Store
Processes Food Store

2 Washing Soda Washing Cleaner Food Store
(Sal Soda) Medicine Drug Store
Photography Photo Supply
Store

1 1/2 Baking Soda Baking Food Store
Manufacturing Drug Store
of: Beverages
Medicines
and
Mineral
Waters

1 1/2 Aspirin Medicine Drug Store
Food Store

Procedure:
---------

CAUTION: Make sure that ther are no open flames in the area when mixing
flame fuels! NO SMOKING!!

1) Seperate the egg white from the yolk. This can be done by breaking the
egg into a dish and carefully removing the yolk with a spoon.
2) Pour egg white into a jar, bottle, or other container, and add gasoline.
3) Add the salt (or other additive) to the mixture and stir occasionally
until gel forms (about 5 to 10 minutes).

NOTE: A thicker gelled flame fuel can be obtained by putting the capped jar
in hot (65 degrees Centegrade) water for about 1/2 hour and then letting
them cool to room temperature. (DO NOT HEAT THE GELLED FUEL CONTAINING
COFFEE!!)

The chemical fire bottle is really an advanced molotov cocktail. Rather
than using the burning cloth to ignite the flammable liquid, which has at best
a fair chance of igniting the liquid, the chemical fire bottle utilizes the
very hot and violent reaction between sulfuric acid and potassium chlorate.
When the container breaks, the sulfuric acid in the mixture of gasoline sprays
onto the paper soaked in potassium chlorate and sugar. The paper, when struck
by the acid, instantly bursts into a white flame, igniting the gasoline. The
chance of failure to ignite the gasoline is less than 2%, and can be reduced
to 0%, if there is enough potassium chlorate and sugar to spare.


MATERIALS EQUIPMENT
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
potassium chlorate 12 oz.glass bottle
(2 teaspoons)

sugar (2 teaspoons) cap for bottle, w/plastic inside

conc. sulfuric acid (4 oz.) cooking pan with raised edges

gasoline (8 oz.) paper towels

glass or plastic cup and spoon

1) Test the cap of the bottle with a few drops of sulfuric acid to make sure
that the acid will not eat away the bottle cap during storage. If the acid
eats through it in 24 hours, a new top must be found and tested, until a
cap that the acid does not eat through is found. A glass top is excellent.

2) Carefully pour 8 oz. of gasoline into the glass bottle.

3) Carefully pour 4 oz. of concentrated sulfuric acid into the glass bottle.
Wipe up any spills of acid on the sides of the bottle, and screw the cap on
the bottle. Wash the bottle's outside with plenty of water. Set it aside
to dry.

4) Put about two teaspoons of potassium chlorate and about two teaspoons of
sugar into the glass or plastic cup. Add about 1/2 cup of boiling water,
or enough to dissolve all of the potassium chlorate and sugar.

5) Place a sheet of paper towel in the cooking pan with raised edges. Fold
the paper towel in half, and pour the solution of dissolved potassium
chlorate and sugar on it until it is thoroughly wet. Allow the towel to
dry.

6) When it is dry, put some glue on the outside of the glass bottle containing
the gasoline and sulfuric acid mixture. Wrap the paper towel around the
bottle, making sure that it sticks to it in all places. Store the bottle
in a place where it will not be broken or tipped over.

7) When finished, the solution in the bottle should appear as two distinct
liquids, a dark brownish-red solution on the bottom, and a clear solution
on top. The two solutions will not mix. To use the chemical fire bottle,
simply throw it at any hard surface.

8) NEVER OPEN THE BOTTLE, SINCE SOME SULFURIC ACID MIGHT BE ON THE CAP, WHICH
COULD TRICKLE DOWN THE SIDE OF THE BOTTLE AND IGNITE THE POTASSIUM
CHLORATE, CAUSING A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION.

9) To test the device, tear a small piece of the paper towel off the bottle,
and put a few drops of sulfuric acid on it. The paper towel should
immediately burst into a white flame.


BOTTLED GAS EXPLOSIVES

Bottled gas, such as butane for refilling lighters, propane for propane
stoves or for bunsen burners, can be used to produce a powerful explosion. To
make such a device, all that a simple-minded anarchist would have to do would
be to take his container of bottled gas and place it above a can of Sterno or
other gelatinized fuel, light the fuel and run. Depending on the fuel used,
and on the thickness of the fuel container, the liquid gas will boil and
expand to the point of bursting the container in about five minutes.

In theory, the gas would immediately be ignited by the burning gelatinized
fuel, producing a large fireball and explosion. Unfortunately, the bursting of
the bottled gas container often puts out the fuel, thus preventing the
expanding gas from igniting. By using a metal bucket half filled with
gasoline, however, the chances of ignition are better, since the gasoline is
less likely to be extinguished. Placing the canister of bottled gas on a bed
of burning charcoal soaked in gasoline would probably be the most effective
way of securing ignition of the expanding gas, since although the bursting of
the gas container may blow out the flame of the gasoline, the burning charcoal
should immediately re-ignite it. Nitrous oxide, hydrogen, propane, acetylene,
or any other flammable gas will do nicely.

During the recent gulf war, fuel/air bombs were touted as being second only
to nuclear weapons in their devastating effects. These are basically similar
to the above devices, except that an explosive charge is used to rupture the
fuel container and disperse it over a wide area. a second charge is used to
detonate the fuel. The reaction is said to produce a massive shockwave and to
burn all the oxygen in a large area, causing suffocation.

Another benefit of a fuel-air explosive is that the gas will seep into
fortified bunkers and other partially-sealed spaces, so a large bomb placed in
a building would result in the destruction of the majority of surrounding
rooms, rendering it structurally unsound.

THIS INCENDIARY BOTTLE IS SELF-IGNITING ON TARGET IMPACT.

MATERIALS HOW USED SOURCE
--------- -------- ------
SULPHURIC / STORAGE BATTERY / MOTOR VEHICLE
ACID / MATERIAL / INDUSTRIAL
/ PROCESSING / PLANTS
/ /
GASOLINE / MOTOR FUEL / GAS STATION
/ / OR MOTOR
/ / VEHICLE
/ /
POTASSIUM / MEDICINE / DRUG STORE
CHLORATE / /
/ /
SUGAR / SWEETENING / FOOD STORE
/ FOODS /

GLASS BOTTLE WITH STOPPER (ROUGHLY 1 QUART SIZE)

SMALL BOTTLE OR JAR WITH LID

RAG OR ABSORBANT PAPER (PAPER TOWELS, NEWPAPER)

STRING OR RUBBER BANDS

PROCEDURE:
---------
1) SULPHURIC ACID MUST BE CONCENTRATED. IF BATTERY ACID OR OTHER DILUTE ACID IS
USED, CONCENTRATE IT BY BOILING UNTIL DENSE WHITE FUMES ARE GIVEN OFF. CONTAINER USED SHOULD BE OF ENAMELWARE OR OVEN GLASS.

CAUTION: SULPHURIC ACID WILL BURN SKIN AND DESTROY CLOTHING. IF ANY IS SPILLED, WASH IT AWAY WITH A LARGE QUANTITY OF WATER. FUMES ARE ALSO DANGEROUS AND SHOULD NOT BE INHALED.

2) REMOVE THE ACID FROM HEAT AND ALLOW TO COOL TO ROOM TEMPERATURE.

3) POUR GASOLINE INTO THE LARGE (1 QUART) BOTTLE UNTIL IT IS APPROXIMATELY 2/3
FULL

4) ADD CONCENTRATED SULPHURIC ACID TO GASOLINE SLOWLY UNTIL THE BOTTLE IS
FILLED TO WITHIN 1" TO 2" FROM TOP. PLACE THE STOPPER ON THE BOTTLE.

5) WASH THE OUTSIDE OF THE BOTTLE THOROUGHLY WITH CLEAR WATER.

CAUTION: IF THIS IS *NOT* DONE, THE FIRE BOTTLE MAY BE DANGEROUS TO HANDLE
DURING USE.

6) WRAP A CLEAN CLOTH OR SEVERAL SHEETS OF ABSORBENT PAPER AROUND THE OUTSIDE
OF THE BOTTLE. TIE WITH STRING OR FASTEN WITH RUBBER BANDS.

7) DISSOLVE 1/2 CUP OF POTASSIUM CHLORATE AND 1/2 CUP OF SUGAR IN ONE CUP OF
BOILING WATER.

8) ALLOW THE SOLUTION TO COOL, POUR INTO THE SMALL BOTTLE AND CAP TIGHLY. THE
COOLED SOLUTION SHOULD BE APPROX. 2/3 CRYSTALS AND 1/3 LIQUID. IF THERE IS
MORE LIQUID THAN THIS, POUR OFF EXCESS BEFORE USING.

CAUTION: STORE THIS BOTTLE SEPARATELY FROM THE OTHER BOTTLE

HOW TO USE:
----------
1) SHAKE THE SMALL BOTTLE TO MIX CONTENTS AND POUR ONTO THE CLOTH OR PAPER
AROUND THE LARGE BOTTLE.

BOTTLE CAN BE USED WET OR AFTER SOLUTION HAS DRIED. HOWEVER, WHEN DRY, THE SUGAR - POTASSIUM CHLORATE MIXTURE IS VERY SENSITIVE TO SPARK OR FLAME AND
SHOULD BE HANDLED ACCORDINGLY.

2) THROW OR LAUNCH THE BOTTLE. WHEN THE BOTTLE BREAKS AGAINST A HARD SURFACE
(TARGET) THE FUEL WILL IGNITE.

This fire bomb is great to take someone by suprise. This can be
thrown from a distance just like the ussual fire bomb. Except this one is
made to expand a fire that is already started. Such as a little bon fire
that your victims have made or a little "chemical" fire that there messing
around with. If they want to see chemical fire chuck one of these to them.
What you nee to do is fill a water ballon with acetone or gas. You can do
this by sucking up the acetone or gas in a syringe and then squirting it in
to the ballon. The ballon should be filled just right. Just as if it had
water in it. Then from here on is pretty much self explanitory. Just
throw this at the fire your victims had made or the one you had made if
your just testing it out. Try to hit a little before the flame. Then you
will have an extremly fast moving fireball so look out if your anywhere
near it. This one is good so you dont have to worry about dropping a glass
firebomb and it setting off at your feet. Or you don't have to worry about
it going out in mid air if you throw it to hard. All you need is a little
tiny flame at the impact point and you have yourself a big onE.

Here is how you do it:

- Get a coke bottle & fill it with gasoline about half full

- Cram a piece of cloth into the neck of it nice and tight

- Get a chlorine tablet and stuff it in there. You are going to have
to force it because the tablets are bigger than the opening of the
bottle.

- Now find a suitable victim and wing it in their direction. When it
hits the pavement or any surface hard enough to break it, and the chlorine
and gasoline mix..... BOOM!!!!!!
Have fun!